Mazatlán’s colonias bustle with community life

In my first two weeks in Mazatlan, I rarely ventured beyond Centro and the malecón. There was plenty to do and see in these areas, and I was intimidated at the prospect of venturing into neighborhoods I knew nothing about.

Fortunately, I made a friend who showed me what he called the “real Mazatlán.” One evening we drove around town on his motorcycle through dozens of neighborhoods, full of community life: people chatting in doorways, tiendas and repair shops; couples and families gathering at outdoor restaurants; teens talking and laughing on the corners.

Exploring further, I’ve since “discovered” two colonias I think some M! readers will enjoy visiting: Infonavit Playas and Lopez Mateos. Both have an urban village feeling, especially in the sections where residents have created park-like oases in the open spaces.

To visit these neighborhoods, a map will be handy. (Free at the tourism office.) Both lie just west of Ejercito Mexicano, aka the Carretera Internaciónal, so you can take a bus that plies this route. The section of Infonavit Playas I’m talking about is north of Rafael Buelna.

Start on Av. de las Torres. From Centro, take Sabalo Cocos Aleman, Federal 3 or Dorados; from Zona Dorada, San Joaquin Sabalo, Urias Sabalo or Cocos Sabalo. Confirm with your driver: “Va a Infonavit Playas?”

Get off at Felipe Angeles, a diverse commercial block. For a bite to eat, there’s the Tacos Gabriel cart; El Nutra licuado-sandwich bar (owner Salvador Martell speaks English); and the loncheria Las Cazuelas de Lety, open 8 to 4 weekdays.

Weekends, Esperanza Rojas Rosales is around the corner on Felipe Angeles selling cochito tatemado (baked pork) to-go with beans, cabbage, pickled onions and salsa. She’ll set up a table and chairs if you ask.

A section of park-like andadores (walkways) starts a short block east of Esperanza’s. The colorful palette of painted houses adds to the charm. On my daytime visit, they were alive with kids playing and adults tending gardens, reminding me of parts of Paris or San Francisco.

Continue north to the corner of Playa Huatabampito and Av. Playa Delfin, where I found a busy BBQ chicken stand with a parade of customers. I took a seat at a shaded table and dug into a savory half chicken with rice, lettuce, tortillas and salsa. Owner Tolentino Galarza Galindo told me his pollerio celebrates its 26th anniversary May 10. (Weekends only for chicken, tacos Wed-Sun till 2pm.)

Now, walk east to the Carretera and get on any bus headed south. Get off just past Wal-Mart at Av. de la Revolucion, head west a couple blocks, then south, and you’ll find yourself in the center of tranquil Lopez Mateos, facing the plazuela with its mature trees and little blue police outpost.

There’s a ciber-store that caters to students, but you can also educate yourself if you read Spanish or impress your friends with a playing-card sized biography of the Mexican their street is named after. Owner Saul Osuna says the store’s large collection of biographies contains any famous patriot you can name.

Two blocks south on Ahuitzol, if English-speaking Patricia Piña is working at Loncheria del Leon, she’ll probably be happy to translate your biography - and serve you lunch. I had a delicious mollete sencillo: beans, melted cheese, fresh tomatoes and onions on a roll. Cocinita de Rosy down the block sent me home with a tuna-stuffed chile relleno for dinner; muy sabroso! Both are closed Sundays.

As I wandered into the sectores in the southeast corner of Lopez Mateos - so named because the walkways are Sector A, Sector B, etc. - I felt like I was leaving the city and entering a village.

Although the open space is bare in some spots, in others residents have created their own mini-arboreta.

The land may be public, but it’s clearly personal space. However, some homeowners sell snacks and sodas, and buying something would certainly give you license to hang around a bit. You might even get invited to sit down in the shade of mango tree, surrounded by flowering plants.