A trip worth taking

So often I’d heard “Oh, San Miguel Allende is not the ‘real’ Mexico, it’s awash with gringos and Canadians.” I decided to decide for myself.

The city of San Miguel is perched 6,100 feet up in the mountains with cobblestone streets spilling through the city like wandering waterfalls. Not a single street has been paved over; a group of empowered government agencies, along with UNESCO, wrapped their arms around this colonial town early on and really preserved it.

My husband and I were so surprised that we could still be surprised, that we immediately shook off any misgivings and dove in to explore this wonderful city. I was prepared to loathe a city devoted to tourism, and it is rather like a movie set. But escaping Mazatlán’s humidity is like leaving your wacky aunt’s apartment and arriving at your parent’s well-ordered, tastefully decorated, air-conditioned house. UNESCO has controlled the exteriors, but it was a refreshing change from the crazy colors and abandoned ruins of Mazatlán.

All the buildings are painted in muted earth tones and the houses display ornately carved wooden doors that lead to secret gardens or stunning courtyards. We were completely seduced by the large pop-up spaces and hidden courtyards. It’s just as intriguing walking the streets here as it is in Sedona, Seattle or San Francisco.

The historic centre of San Miguel is a 24-block area which contains almost five centuries of history. The heart of the old area is the Jardin Square, shaded by boxy laurel trees and lined by classical buildings. The parish church, Parroquia de San Miguel, soars above the square with its curving arches and elaborate turrets. Built in the 17th century and restored in 1880, it casts a rosy pink hue that’s so beautiful you want to sit and gaze at all the tiny details carved into the stone. The Jardin is where you’d meet up with your friends, just like our Plaza Machado.

We reveled in the restaurant choices and spent the entire time eating everything but Mexican food; Italian, Thai, New Orleans, Mediterranean fusion, Argentinean, Oriental, sushi, and French cuisine await you. Our favorite became La Toscana, a family-owned Italian restaurant on Calle Umaran.

You can easily walk the 24 blocks of the Centro Historico. Much like the streets of Mazatlán, look down while you walk, as the cobblestones are lumpy. Also, you need better footwear than just flip-flops.

We also found six yoga studios, and particularly liked the bi-lingual yoga classes in the Arthur Murray Dance School. If it’s a gym you’re after, Hotel Casa Linda, on Mesones has a gym with a lap pool for its guests. If you’re in SMA for an extended period, perhaps the manager would offer you a weekly rate. If you just want to relax, I counted more than 25 spas. Many people decide to improve their Spanish while here, and there are many schools to choose from.

San Miguel hosts a plethora of music and art festivals all year round – look on the tourism website to see what’s coming up and make your reservations early!

The Hotel Casa Linda also has one of the most spectacular roof bars, Club 101, that’s completely surrounded by mountains and bathed in glorious sunsets. Fine dining is downstairs, in the Nirvana restaurant.

Boutique shops and art galleries tempt you on every winding street. Hide your credit cards in the freezer; you don’t see these kinds of shops in Mazatlán and I wanted to buy everything. Honestly, the vast selection increases your shopping impulses. Perhaps it’s the altitude, too.

San Miguel is all about culture. From the Biblioteca Publica (Mexico’s second largest English library), to their Angela Peralta Theatre (more than 130 years old) to the Instituto Allende (built in the 1600s and converted in 1951 to house modern art galleries and a language institute), there’s so much to discover.

For some travelers this may not be the “real Mexico,” but for me it was sheer, summer mountain heaven - dripping in arts, culture, shopping, restaurants and entertainment.