The lowly potato takes on new life as a “papa loca”

How a baked potato could take on such mythical qualities eluded me until I experienced my first papa loca here in Mazatlán. Of course, I had heard-tell of big baked potatoes with all kinds of “stuff” on them before, from Mexican friends in California. But as is rarely the case, the reality of these scrumptious, foil-wrapped, fire-baked, carne-asada-filled, sour cream-and-butter slathered, guacamole-salsa-and-grilled-onion-topped taters far surpassed my expectations

Since then, it’s been hard to resist eating them on a daily basis. As it is, with Taqueria Raymundo set up six days a week almost right on my doorstep, and the sounds and smells wafting into my living room, it seems only logical and rational to have a papa loca – again – for dinner. And why not? I couldn’t make a better, cheaper or more delicious dinner myself; and at $35 pesos a pop, cooked from scratch right in front of me, I can only come out ahead.

My burgeoning waistline, however, convinces me to restrain myself to a once-a-week papa fix.

Papas locas are available all over town, at the carretas, or food stands, on street corners and curbsides everywhere. While each has its own style – and they’re all worth trying – the basic formula is the same: One large potato, wrapped in foil and baked in the grill. When done, it’s split open and vigorously – and I mean vigorously - smashed and mashed inside the skin. (At this point, if you’re lucky, a tiny bit of melted pork fat will be drizzled in – the secret, I think, to Raymundo’s superior papas.) Next, sour cream, butter and shredded cheese are stirred in, and then fresh-grilled chopped carne asada and grilled onions are heaped on top. (Tripa is also available for you really adventurous eaters.) Sometimes frijoles enteros – whole beans – are offered too.

At this point, the whole shebang completely fills the 8- or 9-inch plastic plate you’ll be served on. (Because there’s no running water to wash dishes at the carretas, plates are usually covered with disposable plastic bags.) But wait, we’re not done yet: a mélange of accoutrements await your potato at the table. Salsas – several, with varying degrees of hotness – marinated onions, water-thin guacamole (not spicy) can and should all be added to your papa. You’ll be asked if you want tortillas blanditos or tortillas dorados– fresh-made corn tortillas, either soft or crisped on the grill – my personal favorite, smoky, crunchy and non-salty. Use these to scoop out the warm, moist insides of your papa. Bliss.

Friends have asked me not to tell where Raymundo’s stand is. Some have even begged or threatened. They’re worried, and rightfully so, that if too many of you/us descend on him, the ambience will change. I know what they’re really concerned about is that there won’t be enough papas to go around. So, here’s my compromise: find your own stand, in your own neighborhood, make friends and get to know your local papas locas. You won’t be disappointed - guaranteed.

Janet Blaser has been eating for a living and writing about it for more than 20 years. Send comments, suggestions to her at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .