Working with a simple natural resource, these artisans create beautiful jewelry that evokes Mazatlán’s palm-lined beaches

Weekend nights at the Plaza Machado are especially full of activity at this time of year. In front of the restaurants surrounding the square, the closed-off streets and cobblestone walks are crowded with tables full of people eating, drinking and enjoying the scene. Live music, street performers, impromptu appearances by the 2009 Carnaval Queen candidates – it’s a flurry of commotion.

It would be easy to miss the Arte en Coco booth, tucked into the corner in front of Café Pacifico, where Tanya Mcilveen and Rogelio Vazquez sell their handmade cocoanut shell jewelry. The combination of Tanya’s brilliant smile and the artisanship of their work draw people in, though, and once they’re close enough to see the specific pieces the “oohs” and “ahhs” begin.

“Our concept is that we work with the coconut shell, making jewelry with elaborate carvings,” explains Tanya, a charming young woman originally from Australia who switches from perfect Spanish to English-with–an-Aussie-accent effortlessly. “The process is 100% handmade, from collecting the coconut shells, taking off the outer husks, polishing the inner shell to remove the rough fibers, and then carving the intricate designs on each piece with a tiny coping saw.”

On any given night there are about 200 pieces - pendants for necklaces, earrings, bracelets, hair brooches and key chains - in a subtle range of colors, from bright white to ivory, soft tan to a dark, almost black, brown. The delicate carved imagery incorporates designs from all over the world, such as pre-Hispanic Mexican symbols, Celtic designs and Japanese calligraphy. You can also request a personalized design or even bring a drawing or sample of something you’d like and they’ll carve it for you while you wait, working on one corner of the big burlap-covered table. It’s a smörgåsbord of beautiful items and it can be difficult to settle on only one piece to purchase.

The cocoanut shell is surprisingly light - it almost feels like Styrofoam in your hand. Designs are photocopied to the right size and then glued onto small pieces of cocoanut shell in different shapes. Tiny holes are punched first to start each section of the design, and then the wire-thin blade of the coping saw is threaded into the hole. From there, the design is cut out, the wire of the saw moving up and down like a sewing machine needle as opposed to the back-and-forth of a regular saw. When each tiny section is finished they detach the blade and move on to the next. It’s a meticulous process that looks easier than it is. Tanya says she and Rogelio each create about 40 pieces a week.

Rogelio learned how to do this in Argentina, where he says it’s quite popular. He’s been an independent artisan for a decade, and also paints, does screen-printing and makes candles. The cocoanut shell jewelry has been his focus for the past five years. Rogelio and Tanya met in Puebla three years ago and moved to Mazatlán’s Centro Historico a year ago.

Their jewelry has a universal appeal, and customers cover the spectrum of ages, nationalities and styles. In a world of plastics and mass-produced souvenirs, Arte en Coco has a tangible “real-ness” that reminds visitors and residents alike of the beautiful palm-lined beaches of Mazatlán.

“We’ve been really flattered by the enthusiasm and success of our art here, with locals and tourists alike,” says Tanya. “We think a big part of our success is that the people can see it’s a laborious process and done by us with 100% natural materials from Mazatlán.”

Arte en Coco sets up in the Plaza Machado every Friday and Saturday night from ?-??pm. Their booth is in front of Café Pacifico. You can also reach them at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or (cell) 669-912-4211.