Taco stands and restaurants that cater to taco lovers are as common in Mazatlán as disregarded stop signs. As many of you know, for the past couple of years I’ve been on a quest for the perfect taco; not an easy task.

A taco may seem like a relatively simple concoction; however, there are many varieties available in quite a diverse array of settings. I quickly discovered that great tacos do not depend on architectural presentation, elaborate signage, premium location or printed menus. In fact, some of the most tasteless tacos I’ve had have been at the so-called mainstream restaurants. To sample the very best of this traditional Mexican food, you need to literally eat in the street. That’s not to say that some “regular” restaurants don’t serve superb tacos, but you’ll find some of the very best are from the street stands.

There are two distinct types of street stands: those that cook on-site, and those that serve from prepared pots of ingredients. Most of the ones that cook on-site use charcoal-fired grills. I personally favor the stands that cook over a charcoal fire and make their own tortillas. (There’s something about raw flesh seared over an open fire that I find irresistible.) Combine that with warm, hand-made corn tortillas and fresh salsas, and you have a truly authentic Mazatlán experience.

There are several ways to ascertain whether or not a street stand will send you home in sublime pleasure or severe abdominal distress. The first thing is to look at is the level of care given to cleanliness; after all, there’s no running water at any of these places. Most serve food on plates covered in a plastic bag and the communal tables will be covered with clean vinyl tablecloths. However, the main indicator of survivability is the number of people eating at the location. Since these stands set up in the same spot every day or evening, if the food was unsafe to consume, the seats would be empty.

Over the years I’ve met some gringos that have absolutely refused to eat at any type of street stand. They believe that just being in close proximity to a street stand will cause them to contract intestinal parasites the size of pit bulls. Several months ago, I was having dinner at one of my favorite stands, when a gringo and his Mexican wife sat down at the communal table. After a short conversation, I discovered they had driven from Cerritos to Centro just so the woman could enjoy the food at this particular stand. The husband, however, made it very clear he would never eat at a street stand, even as his wife chowed down on three fabulous quesadillas con carne. His mistaken belief was that since his wife was Mexican, she would not be attacked by the intestinal pit bulls. It is truly unfortunate that his tightly held conviction deprives him of one of the great taste treats of Mazatlán.

My advice is to go forth into the streets of Mazatlán and sample some of the finest Mexican food available. These delightful tacos can be had for between $10 and $20 pesos each, and of course they should be ordered with everything. My preferred stand is on the northwest corner of Guillermo Nelson and Zaragoza streets, across from the park. But don’t take my word for it – sally forth and find your own favorite.