RossoNero Wine Bar takes Mazatlán to a new level of sophistication

We’d had a rather frenzied day of driving and shopping, looking (in vain, I might add) for something specific apparently not available in Mazatlán. Although we’d already had lunch, we pulled in to the strip of restaurants just over the first bridge in the marina; I remembered a reader telling me about a new wine bar here, and so we wandered over to see what we could find.

RossoNero is a surprise, a hidden gem in the back corner of this rather plain strip mall. Cozy, with dark wood, black leather chairs and deep burgundy walls, the charming bistro/wine bar transports you to a more cosmopolitan, contemporary place, a city I believe is the Mazatlan-to-come that many of us are excitedly awaiting. There’s an air of perfection – of the food, of the wine, of the service, of the entire experience - that’s apparent from the moment you step inside (or even before).

Owner Enrique Espinoza is charming, knowledgeable and OK, yes, absolutely adorable. His warm greetings, be-dimpled smiles and knowledge of not just wines but taste preferences made us feel instantly at ease. He questioned us carefully as to what our wine-druthers were, made his suggestions, and bustled off after we agreed on a luscious Italian Vallagarina IGT Pinot Grigo for me and a 2007 Chilean Veramonte Pinot Noir, from the Casablanca Valley, for my friend. Moments later he returned with a chilled crystal wine glass and the bottle, allowing me to exclaim over the pale peach color of my Pinot Grigio before he poured.

“I wanted to make a place where I could have fun,” he said. “To eat well and drink well, with food made to order and service you deserve.”

Although the menu is ample and interesting – paninis with house-made foccacia, deep-dish pizza with handmade Italian sausage, exotic salads and more – Enrique is happy to have the kitchen whip up something specifically for your palette: we asked for olives, he suggested muffaletta, and wowed us with a tray of the piquant New Orleans spread on bruschetta. Weekly seasonal specials are coming, too, and I have to mention that the espresso is the heavenly Illy Café. Yes, it’s a bar menu – but a far cry from peanuts and pretzels.

I’ll admit to being a bit intimidated by such a big selection of wines (some priced at more per glass than I usually spend on a meal) but Enrique or his staff will happily guide you through the menu to find something that fits your palette and your pocketbook. And, it’s a relief to drink a quality wine – after so many months of Concha y Toro or worse, to sip and savor a choice wine reminded me that often quality is more important than quantity.

Besides the dynamic menu of wines, there’s a big menu of imported beers and a full bar with lots of specialty cocktails. Be forewarned: As far as drinks are concerned, where to start and where to stop will be your biggest problem.

“Smell this,” he said, tilting an open bottle of imported French violette liquor toward our willing noses. “We made a Violet Martini!”

“Tomorrow I don’t know what we’re going to come up with,” he exclaimed. “I might be bored and bring another dozen in. It never ends!”

And Enrique’s contagious enthusiasm is, of course, part of that formula. In his own words, he wants his customers “to have a good time, period.”

At RossoNero, that isn’t hard to do.

Janet Blaser has been eating for a living and writing about it for more than 20 years. Send comments, suggestions to her at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .