A tale of bagels, seafood and lucho libre

Cousins, best friends and native Mazatlecans Chuy Velarde and Tato Rico had an idea. They wanted to go into business together and both thought a restaurant was just the thing. Chuy wanted a bagel shop: “El Santo Bagels.” Tato thought a ceviche place: “La Panga Ceviche.” Neither wanted a hot kitchen.

They found a building – ideally located on the up-and-coming, hip, young restaurant corridor on Ninos Heroes, next to Wings Army – and started remodeling. They still couldn’t decide what to do. Architect Rafael Ramirez, another lifelong friend, kept asking: What will the name be? Finally, needing to put something on the plans, he just used both: El Santo y La Panga. The rest, we can now say, is history.

It took the young men several months to transform the dilapidated building. In the meantime, they contacted Jaime Flores, another old friend with years of restaurant experience. They asked him to make some sample dishes for a dinner menu. He wowed them with some of his favorites, seafood dishes with lots of local ingredients and Asian sensibilities. They were sold, and said good-bye to bagels and ceviche (although you’ll find both on the menu).

Jaime refers to the front dining room - with its multi-color striped wall, cork trough and fabulous lime-green upholstered chairs - as El Santo, and the back lounge as La Panga. Once you’re there, you’ll understand why: the lounge’s big wall is painted with an attention-grabbing mural that includes a life-size panga (fishing boat), and the front room, where the bar is, has a wall plastered with Mexican wrestler El Santo’s face peering out of his mask, his eyes bigger than your head. Disconcerting? Not at all. Somehow it’s all OK.

On March 15, the restaurant opened, and as Jaime says, “Since then, we haven’t stopped.”

That’s no understatement – those of you who’ve been here all summer know that it’s a happening spot, whether for dinner, starting at 6 p.m., or later, especially weekends, when the “youngsters” are out and the party really starts. It also helps that Jaime was a DJ for years and his collection of 1,000+ CDs both sets and matches the mood of the restaurant and its customers.

Poised for success, El Santo y La Panga has been mentioned in almost every English and Mexican magazine and newspaper write-up in the past year, including the October issue of Travel & Leisure, where Mazatlan was listed as one of the top new vacation destinations in the world and Jaime’s words were the closing quote.

Now, La Panga is ready for the extranjeros to return. After a year, the fine-tuned menu is full of interesting seafood dishes with unusual twists and flavors. Mexican standards done La Panga-style are anything but usual; for example, the tostadas, raw tuna marinated in lime juice and soy sauce, atop a tostadita with a dab of chipotle mayo, julienned crisp-fried onions and thin slices of avocado. It’s an unbeatable combination that’s on almost every table every night, says Chef “Sombra” (aka Jose Reyes Silva), the mastermind in the kitchen.

The Brochetes de Camaron are a similar surprise: marinated jumbo shrimp, bell pepper and onion arrive at the table in a 3-D arrangement involving an orange half, bamboo skewers and a spicy-sweet glaze. Another favorite is the Camarones del Chef ($115), big shrimp wrapped with bacon and cheese in the chef’s secret chipotle sauce.

“I like to use what’s here in my hands, what’s local,” Jaime said. “Marlin, scallops, mango, tamarindo, coconut, dorado…that’s what I like. Plus, it’s all good for you.”

The diverse menu is divided into three price ranges: $49, $79 and $115, with local TV personality Chef Diego’s Special at $169. Ask your waiter to explain the details of each dish, as the menu descriptions don’t do them justice. I love the Ensalada de Salmon ($49), a meal in itself, with chunks of grilled salmon, Chihuahua cheese, avocado and tomato mixed with crunchy iceberg lettuce and a tangy bleu cheese dressing, served on top of a deep-fried flour tortilla that adds some heft and is oh-so-good, but don’t tell the doctor…There are about 10 items for $49, making it easy to order several and share with friends. Again, have your waiter explain or make suggestions.

For $79, try several ceviches, sashimis and the Dorado Tamarindo. For $115, there’s Salmon Glaceado, grilled with a brown sugar, soy sauce and butter glaze, served with rice and veggies, and half a dozen other options.

The restaurant prides itself on its ample wine and beer list and exceptional cocktails – both because of how they’re made and because of their original creations. Don’t be afraid to ask Jaime or the bartender to suggest something new – like the Spicy Mango Margarita - or to make your favorite martini or Lemon Drop just the way you like it.

And everything’s available to-go, except for the waiters – they’re only available on Saturdays, quips Jaime, when they don’t have to work the next day.