An oasis of good tastes

Finding El Olivo, a tiny bistro-slash-deli tucked into a greenery-filled niche dead-center in the Gold Zone, reminded me that I need to trust my instincts more. From the first week I arrived in Mazatlan several years ago, every time I went past it I felt drawn to go inside. I didn’t, until now.

Seemingly modeled after any neighborhood bistro in San Francisco/New York/Los Angeles/Vancouver/Toronto, et al, El Olivo could be summed up in one word: Tasteful. The décor: Tasteful. The service: Tasteful. The menu? Tasteful as well. And the food itself, yes, is tasteful too, from the still-warm morning pastries baked daily on-site, to the lush and lovely lunchtime salads, all the way to the simple, pretention-free pasta and dinner entrees topped off with perfectly made espresso.

Mornings, I say go for the biscuits alone, with or without your laptop to check the day’s email. (There’s wireless internet here, too.) Made with real butter, they crumble deliciously upon arrival in your mouth. Then, try the house crepes, stuffed with lively Poblano chili strips, corn, mushrooms and spinach, bathed in a creamy Swiss cheese sauce, or, if you must, sample the Banana Coconut Pancakes, a decadent tropical treat, or peruse the selection of omelettes and Mexican-style breakfasts. All will satisfy.

I’ve ventured back numerous times for lunch and dinner, too. Gourmet sandwiches please the palate, served open-face or “European-style” on fresh breads and piled high with standard (turkey, chicken breast, salmon) or more unusual (fresh mozzarella, spouts, pickled onions) ingredients. A menu of salads intrigues with presentation and flavor: De Trigo, whole wheat berries tossed with raw veggies, dressed with house vinaigrette; Eugenia, poached tomatoes with fresh mozzarella; and El Olivo, for two, a luxurious pile of greens, avocado, wheat berries, grilled chicken and matchsticks of jicama and carrot. Pasta dishes are full of flavor and just the right size. And you can’t go wrong with the Comida del Dia: soup, entrée, dessert and a beverage for $65, with a rotating selection from the regular menu, every day from noon to 5 p.m.

Random notes: Milkshake lovers will rejoice in the scrumptious trio of flavors served here. You’ll want to try the Blue Bread (“Pan Azul”), a house special of rounds of Ciabatta bread toasted with honey and bleu cheese, a tasteful (there’s that word again) accompaniment to any meal. And for a group or business meeting, El Olivo offers appealing deli platters ($65-$145), which include breaded mushrooms with house dip, tapenade on rounds of Ciabatta, or the Plato Rosado, salmon with cream cheese, olive oil and house-baked bread.

Janet Blaser has been eating for a living and writing about it for 20 years. Send comments, suggestions, recommendations to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .