Worth the wait - and the drive – this family business has been pleasing the people for more than 20 years

The first time I went to El Cuchupetas – or was taken, actually, to lunch with a group of girlfriends – I didn’t know what to expect. Piled into the car, we trundled gaily up Highway 15, out of town, past the airport exit and over a narrow bridge that straddled a then-dry riverbed. In the small, crowded town of Villa Union, we turned right onto a (thankfully) paved road and headed into what seemed to be a neighborhood.

In front of a clean, salmon-colored building on a corner, we parked and made our way to the unassuming aluminum front door. We tumbled into the restaurant, a gaggle of gringas on an outing, already having a good time. We were ready to eat, and I would soon discover with delight that we’d come to the right place.

As we were shown to a table, we passed happy folks and plates laden with delicious-looking food. The rooms were filled with tantalizing aromas of whole grilled fish, big barbecued shrimp, fat empanadas, giant baked oysters, and who-knows-what-else. Waiters hurried by, carrying big trays of steaming food. Every table was neatly set, with white cloth and clear plastic covering. Formal “Sunday dinner” style wooden chairs stood ready. Anticipation – and satisfaction - were in the air.

There are more than 40 seafood items on Cuchupetas’ menu, and it can be rather overwhelming at first. Nothing is more than $140; most dishes hover around $65-80. How to choose between Langostino a la Cuchupetas (almost lobster-size shrimp grilled with the house secret sauce)? Estufado de Aleta de Atun (yellowfin tuna stew) or Brochetas de Camaron y Filete (scrumptious shrimp and dorado kebabs)? Tacos Gobernador – stuffed with shrimp and marlin - or Pescado Zarandeado? All I can say is best to go with several friends (ahem) and share.

Order an appetizer while you decide – I like the pulpo, succulent rounds of tender octopus, or the jaiba, a literal pile of fresh crabmeat served with salsas, limes and tostadas. Then, choose a category – fish, shrimp, crab, langostino – to help narrow your selection. And do ask your waiter, who’ll be happy to make suggestions.

I wanted oysters; my friends were hesitant. Years of eating for a living have developed a trust in me of restaurateurs; I doubted an establishment so obviously meticulous about cleanliness and details would serve less-than-safe foodstuffs. I chatted with our waiter and settled on Ostiones a la Cuchupetas. By the time everyone ordered we had a veritable smorgasbord of seafood on the way.

Twenty-two years ago, on January 9, Manuel Sanchez Villarpando started the now-booming restaurant with three tables and a simple menu of fresh seafood: ceviche, agua chile, shrimp and jaiba (crab). The name, El Cuchupetas, is his nickname. It was soon busy enough that they expanded throughout the sprawling, single-story house, filling eight of the rooms with dining areas, and the added another dining room across the street, where the main kitchen is, with seven more tables. Manuel has plans to build second stories on both buildings to allow smoking areas. The 44 tables can hold 300 people, mas o menos, when fully occupied, which happens on an almost-daily basis.

Manuel’s two sons, Santiago and Jesus de Dios, work with their father running Cuchupetas. With almost 50 employees and all those customers, you can imagine it’s a more-than-full-time job.

What’s their secret? Manuel shrugged and looked around.

“People like to be here because I’m very friendly,” he said. “I sit down and visit with the people. And, the food is very, very fresh.”

The walls are covered with framed photos of famous Mexican sports stars, actors and politicians, from local officials to governors and presidents, and historical photos of Villa Union and Mazatlán. Santiago tells me how they catered state dinners for then-President Fox in Mexico City and still are called upon to cater for government events.

Cuchupetas prides itself, and rightfully so, on its service, ambience and food. Santiago says he tries to emulate his father’s genuine friendliness and welcoming charisma, and expects the same of the staff. That means you’ll get service with more than a smile, every time.

On weekends and holidays, the line begins inside and snakes down the block. People wait, without complaining. Inside, the noise is lively, but can be cacophonous. Sometimes newcomers wonder if the restaurant is giving something away for free; otherwise, why would there be such a big line, and why would people wait so long?

“They want to eat here – they don’t care if they have to wait,” said waiter Gilberto Beltran, a 15-year employee. “And once inside, we’re very kind to the people and they get quick service.”

The specific memory of my meal that day has faded with time and merged into a larger bank of satisfying experiences at Cuchupetas. I’ve learned to plan my visits so I’m really hungry and also so I have the time to sit, relax and simply enjoy a great meal, perfectly executed, reflecting on my good fortune, good friends and all-around good life.