It’s taken me awhile to get used to staying hydrated in a way that’s necessary here – the intense heat and subsequent sweating day after day makes the advice to “drink lots of liquids” more than just an empty refrain. I’ve actually become quite creative in my drinking habits (I’m talking non-alcoholic, folks!) to the point that my discovery of ice cube trays that make thin, rectangular ice that fits into the opening of a water bottle (!) filled me with, yes, joy.

So here we are again on the cusp of another long, hot summer; already the days are hot enough that I’ve dug out the aforementioned ice cube trays and they’re sitting filled and ready in the freezer. I’ve also begun to scout out my favorite drink vendors, who thankfully also appear on various street corners along with the advent of warmer weather.

My favorite of all of these (so far) are the cocohorchata vans, parked quiet and unassuming, at four busy intersections about town. Owner Enrique Cardenas’ secret recipe has created a legion of fans addicted to the sweet, refreshing drink, served ice-cold in two sizes. (I’d recommend getting the large, a liter, for $20.)

The basic premise is horchata (the traditional Mexican rice flour drink) mixed with fresh cocoanut milk (the clear “juice” in the middle of the cocoanut, not the “milk” pressed from the flesh). But this seemingly simple combination yields a surprisingly fabulous drink, that’s refreshing, thirst-quenching and just-sweet-enough. I’ve gotten to the point that after a day at Stone Island, driving home, I start salivating as I get near the cocohorchata van parked on the corner of Playa Rosarito and Carnaval streets in Playa Sur (two blocks in from Aleman on the left). What can I say?

The vans are parked at four locations: all just off busy streets: on Rafael Buelna & Juan Silvetti, between Scotiabank and the Vanguardia furniture store; Av. Colosio, in front of Corona factory; on the corner of Av. Jabalies and Av. Venados; and in Playa Sur. All are open daily from 1-8pm except for Rafael Buelna, open from noon to 8:30pm.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t also mention another specialty here, “tosticocos” – chunks of fresh cocoanut, cachuates japonesa (sugar-coated spicy peanuts), Tostitos chips and picante “chaca-chaca” fruit candies, all mixed together and doused with chili, salt and fresh lime juice.

Oh, and those cool ice cube trays? Find them at any of the kitchen and plastics stores downtown, for about $20 pesos for two.

Janet Blaser has been eating for a living and writing about it for more than 20 years. Send comments, suggestions to her at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .