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I have to admit that when Cueva began to get popular it irritated me; suddenly “my” quiet little café was swamped morning, noon and night. It became impossible to get a table; I would see the literal crowds of people seated or waiting and be, well, annoyed. I wanted Manolo’s food; I lusted after his spicy/sweet mango sauce on big succulent shrimp, hankered for his tender arrachera wrapped in blue corn tortillas; yearned for Cueva’s signature Chiles Rellenos (big, mild Poblano chiles stuffed with shrimp in a cheese sauce).
Now that the snowbirds are gone, La Cueva del Leon has once again returned to its former, more laid-back self and I can become a fixture there once again. Owners Manolo Cardona and Alejandro Castillo finally have time to breathe and those of us still here can once again enjoy a leisurely, delicious meal.
It’s no wonder that Cueva is so popular, though, with so many tempting dishes at more-than-reasonable prices. Classic Mexican foods share the menu with other innovative, contemporary dishes, all using fresh, local ingredients and made daily by Cueva’s staff of five cooks. And for me, Manny’s attention to detail and cleanliness adds another degree of pleasure.
With prices like these, why cook at home?
“We have a formula that works,” he said. “Great prices, high-quality food, great location and attentive service.”
Manny and Alejandro took over the little Olas Altas café in late 2009 with a staff of just themselves and one cook. (Before that, Manny worked for and then was partners with the former owner.) Alejandro is a long-time friend, and the two men work together well.
It was word-of-mouth, “the most reputable way,” (and, dare I say, winning M!’s 2009 Mazzie Award for Best Margarita and a 2010 Mazzie as one of Mazatlán’s Top 3 Restaurants) that started it all. People came from as far away as Emerald Bay and Estrella del Mar, and then even the cruise ship passengers arrived on the scene, after Cueva appeared and then has remained in Mazatlan’s Top 10 restaurants on the popular travel website Trip Advisor. It’s also listed in Canada’s WestJet guide to Mazatlán.
“We’re satisfied with what we’re doing and have done, and we’re a little surprised with how things have turned out so well,” said Manny. “We’re so appreciative of everyone’s acceptance!”
Cueva’s menu speaks to the hungry in all of us, and offers a blessed change from the “same ol’, same ol.’” You’ll find your favorites – Coconut Shrimp, Chicken, Beef or Shrimp Fajitas, Chicken Mole – but then there are also wonderful surprises like the Mexicano Omelet (Chihuahua cheese, Portobello mushrooms, pumpkin flowers and chorizo, folded into a thin omelet), avocado halves stuffed with scrambled eggs and melted cheese, or tenderloin in a tomatillo and guajillo pepper sauce. Mashed potatoes are a popular side, especially for entrees like pork chops, and the soups, like Cream of Vegetable or Cuitlacoche (that elusive corn fungus/mushroom), somehow hit the spot even when it’s hot outside. The salads are another favorite, including the Siempre Joven spinach salad and a classic Cobb Salad.
Chicken breast, shrimp and fish are available with an assortment of sauces, ranging from the sweet (mango, cilantro) to the spicy (Diablo, chipotle, riojena). Main dishes come with rice and steamed veggies; some include blue corn tortillas or a small loaf of yummy whole wheat bread.
Where: On the malecon in Olas Altas under the palapa, near Hotel BelMar
When: 10am-10pm daily. Brunch served 10am to 1pm.
Contact: www.la-cueva-del-leon.tk, 6691-54-8670.
And: Full bar, wine & beer. Cash only, no credit cards. Reservations suggested for parties of six or more. Gift certificates available.
Manolo, one of eight kids, learned to cook from his mom, and cooking comes naturally to him. He’s always adding new dishes to the “Specials” board and in September plans to re-vamp the menu.
Besides the great food, comfortable, casual ambience and competent, knowledgeable team of Manny, Alejandro and the staff, there’s one other really important thing: the prices! Most meals hover around $60 pesos for a complete lunch or dinner, with breakfasts a little less. With prices like these, why cook at home?
Out front under the palapa, Cueva’s tiled sidewalk patio is crowded with tables, the blues of the tablecloths matching the sky and horizon across the street at Olas Altas beach.
Why is everything just so good?
“I love food, I like food and I know how to eat,” said Manny. “Maybe that’s why.”
Janet Blaser has been eating for a living and writing about it for more than 20 years. Send comments, suggestions to her at
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