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Good Taste

Café – Olé!

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Rich, strong, fresh-brewed coffee is loved the world over – and Mazatlán’s no exception

coffee

I am a coffee snob.

There, I’ve said it. I’ve come to admit it, too – sometimes regretfully, sometimes thankfully, rarely proudly. What exactly do I mean? Well, I would rather go without than drink the likes of inferior beans made incorrectly and uncaringly into a weak morning pick-me-up beverage. I will accept a caffeine migraine rather than – shudder – imbibe coffee that’s been sitting for hours on a warm burner, reheated and reheated until the once-aromatic and luscious oils turn into a dark, bitter, harsh liquid not fit, in my opinion, for human consumption.

Many a morning, there stands my quandary.

Luckily, here in Mazatlán, nary a quandary can be found, as perfectly made, fresh-roasted espresso drinks and coffee are – thank the Gods – scattered throughout the city. From one end to the other, good and drinkable and enjoyable coffee is readily found. Below, a rundown, in alphabetical – not geographical or any other – order.

From one end of the city to the other, good and drinkable and enjoyable coffee is readily found.

Alegro Cafe, known as much for its fantastic Eggs Benedict as for its consistently flavorful, rich (organic Chiapas, yum!) and well-made coffee and espresso drinks, has kept the GZ satiated and caffeinated for years. With two indoor seating areas, a big covered patio out front and tables scattered along the side too, Alegro is a deservedly popular java mainstay. Beans: Organic Chiapas. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Full breakfasts, salads, paninis, pastries, bagels. Vitals: Camaron Sabalo, Gold Zone, across from the Vineyard Church. 7am-11pm daily. Indoor/outdoor seating with a/c.

Sleek, modern and sitting front-and-center on the main drag in the GZ, Badlands Coffee Company is the new guy in town. Part coffeehouse, part bistro (there are burgers and ribs in the afternoon and evening, go figure!) the décor lends itself well to both. Coffee and espresso are made with organic Kona or Chiapas (yum) and a commitment to quality is evident. Beans: Organic Kona & Chiapas. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Pastries, bagels. Full lunch/dinner. Vitals: 7am-7:30pm, Fri./Sat./Sun. till 11pm. Camaron Sabalo, next to Costa de Oro, Gold Zone. Indoor/outdoor seating with a/c.

Quick, easy and drive-through, Caffenio is the newest offshoot of an 84-year-old company based in Hermosillo that first produced Café Combate. Both cafes have cozy outdoor seating – my favorite is the one on the malecon in Los Pinos, where you can sit & watch the fisherman bring in their daily catch while checking email. Their website includes a “test” to see what type of coffee suits your personality. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Pastries, bagels. Vitals: In Centro: Corner 5 de Mayo y Paseo Claussen & 5 de Mayo. Open 6am-10pm daily. In Gold Zone: Blvd. del Sábalo (Across from Oceano Palace). Open 6am-10pm daily. www.caffenio.com.

Since February, Coffee Tree, a hidden gem in the Gran Plaza mall, has been wooing patrons with its espresso drinks and fresh-made-right-in-front-of-you crepes. Coffee Tree is a free-standing café, with lots of comfy seating in big soft chairs in its own private area. Service is attentive and friendly, the coffee is well-made and hey, for some of us it’s just fun to sit in the (air-conditioned) mall! Beans: Organic Mexican varieties. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Bagels, pastries, sweet or savory crepes, baguette sandwiches, smoothies. Vitals: 9am-9pm daily. Center of the Gran Plaza Mall (Not in the food court.)

Steps away from the Plaza Machado, on the corner of Heriberto Frias and Mariano Escobedo, is El Faro, “The Great Coffee Corner.” There, beans are roasted and ground – the aroma draws people in like moths to a flame - and oodles of exquisite espresso and coffee drinks are made every day. Local businesspeople, tourists and residents congregate outside, chatting as they await the arrival of a latté or frappe. Lorena and staff might not remember your name but will remember your drink. Beans available for purchase. Beans: Roasted on-site. Internet: No. Eatables: Pastries, cookies. Vitals: Monday-Friday, 7am-8:30pm, Sat. till 9pm, Sunday 5-9pm. Take-out only, no seating.

Next up: EtniKafé, a genuinely pleasing place for excellent coffee. After ordering at the cozy counter just inside the front door, head to the charming patio, redolent with lush plants, archways and other rustic features of the colonial building that houses this charming gift shop & café. The coffee is 100% organic, shade-grown Fair Trade – and yes, you can taste the difference. You’ll find all your favorite espresso drinks, chai, hot cocoa and teas, frappes and a refreshing limon smoothie – and perhaps even something special to take home. Beans: Organic Chiapas dark roast. Internet: No. Eatables: Pastries, cookies. Vitals: Monday-Saturday, 9am-7pm, Sixto Osuna #50, Centro, 6691-36-0139.

Cheery forest green umbrellas and buttery marble accents welcome you to The Italian Coffee Company, whose motto is “Any Time is Coffee Time.” There’s a nice patio with a gorgeous view of the ocean and las islas right across the street, seating inside – and they deliver within the area.. Beans: Special House Blend from Puebla. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Paninis, Pastries, bagels. Vitals: 8am-11:30pm daily. #1105 Ave. del Mar, on the malecón just south of Av. Insurgentes. Indoor/outdoor seating with a/c. 954-0512, www.italiancoffee.com.

Anchoring Mazatlán’s coffee scene is Looney Bean, with two locations at the north and south ends of town. The original location in Cerritos is a charming open-front café and is where beans are roasted; in Olas Altas, “the Bean” has just a few small tables and chairs on the sidewalk, but the malecon with its very-sittable wall is just across the street. The organic, Fair Trade coffees are available for purchase. Oh, yes: winner of 2010 Mazzie Awards Best Coffee. Beans: Organic, Fair Trade, roasted on-site. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Pastries, bagels, cookies. In Cerritos, waffles, sandwiches, yogurt parfaits. Vitals: Olas Altas: 7:30am-9pm daily, limited seating. Cerritos: 7:30am-8pm daily, indoor/outdoor seating.

With its quintessentially charming location – in the cobblestone alley in front of the Angela Peralta Theater – Memorial Café is a great spot to sit with a cappuccino and either contemplate the world or watch it walk by. The espresso is consistently well-pulled and their late-late hours and big menu make this a great spot to hang-out, day and night. Beans: Organic Chiapas. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Full menu of breakfasts, lunch & dinner + pastries. Vitals: 7am-midnight or later every day. In the Plaza Machado, opposite theater entrance. Indoor/ outdoor seating with a/c.

Now with two locations, Sole Mare offers a gourmet European-style coffee experience. Here you’llfind every kind of coffee and espresso drink you could want, hot or cold, and teas, frappes an d smoothies too. A full kitchen offers breakfast, lunches and beyond. Both locations are elegantly appointed in rich burgundy, dark wood and marble. The marina café has two levels and upstairs has big tables for meetings and groups. Beans: Special House Blend from Vera Cruz. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Full breakfasts, burritos, hot & cold sandwiches, salads, pastries. Vitals: Malecon: #1020 Av. del Mar. Marina: Business & Life Center, Av. Del Marina. 8am-11pm daily. Indoor/outdoor seating with a/c.

Of all the coffee places in town, Tá Café, with its fern-filled patio and fans whirring overhead in the old Canobbio Arcade building in the Plaza Machado, feels the most like Old Mexico or – dare I say - Europe. It’s no problem if you want to sit for hours with your laptop and latté, people-watching or waiting for friends who inevitably saunter by. Inside, there’s a large sitting area that’s a secret hideaway when the weather gets hot. You can also order from Las Brasas menu. Internet: Sometimes. Eatables: Fruit & yogurt, bagels, pastries, baguette sandwiches. Vitals: 7am to midnight daily. Closed Monday. Corner Heriberto Frias & Sixto Osuna, in the Plaza Machado. Indoor/outdoor seating with a/c.

Rico’s was Mazatlan’s first “real” coffee shop, and from day one was committed to “serving not only the best coffee, but coffees that are the best for Mexico.” That means they use only Fair Trade, organic coffees, and also that they’re dedicated to creating and maintaining a “coffee culture” here. The baristas take pride in their espresso drinks, and in fact, some of them have won prizes in national and international espresso-making competitions (see sidebar.) Beans are roasted on-site in the GZ and many hotels and restaurants serve Rico’s coffee, too. Owner Marianne is a bustling ball of energy who knows and loves her customers and has brought her San Francisco sensibilities to the menu: A full kitchen serves scrumptious breakfasts, lunches and late-night meals, including omelettes, crepes, whole wheat waffles and house-made pastries and cakes. Beans: Organic Fair Trade Mexican. Roasted on-site in GZ, available for purchase. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Full breakfast & lunch menu (GZ, Marina) plus pastries, bagels. Vitals: 7am-11pm daily. (GZ, 6:30am) Three locations: Gold Zone (across from Inn at Mazatlan), Pemex Center, Marina and in El Cid Hotel complex. GZ/marina: Indoor/outdoor seating with a/c, live music weekends.

When the venerable Starbucks came to town a couple years ago, some of us admittedly were pleased: the same consistent quality and familiar style of drinks we were used to. With its central GZ location, clean, modern interior with a meeting/work area, and of course high-quality coffees, rich American-style pastries y mas, our local Starbucks has lots of fans.Beans: Shade-grown Chiapas. Internet: Yes. Eatables: Sandwiches, pastries, bagels, cookies, cakes. Vitals: 7am-11pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-11pm weekends. Ave. Paseo Lomas #102, Lomas de Mazatlán. 913-4260. Indoor/outdoor seating with a/c.

Janet Blaser has been eating for a living and writing about it for more than 20 years. Send comments, suggestions to her at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

Comments

avatar dhberry
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Okay.... I NEED a place for Eggs Benedict. I'm in Centro. Where do I go without a .00 Pulmania ride? Thanks!
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